“La Via del Sale” : Ultimate Guide to Italy’s Epic Salt Road in the Alps
This summer, my boyfriend and i decided we needed an adventure weekend, escaping the busy crowds of Nice for something wilder into the nature. That’s how we ended up discovering the Salt Road in Italy with our 4×4, one of the most scenic mountain routes in Europe.
Since we have a 4×4 (a little and cutie Suzuki Jimny), we wanted to go a bit off-track. After chatting with a friend, he told us about this famous Salt Road in Italy, he’d driven with his bike in a year ago: “La Via del Sale”. One look at his photos and we knew we had to go. A few days later, snacks and clothes packed, we were on the road on the way to the charming alpine town of Limone Piemonte (the base for this Road).
In this article, I’ll take you along for the ride — from our arrival in Limone to the way on this mythic Salt Road — and share everything you need to know to plan your trip to La Via del Sale adventure and tell you more about our station to Chalet Morel (Google Pin).
Quick Practical Information
Here you’ll find all you need to know :
- Distance : 30km
- When to visit : June–October. Summer would be the best for me.
- Vehicle : 4×4 with good clearance (could also be done with Bike, Motor Bike, Hikers)
- Starting point : Limone Piemonte, Italy (Popular) or Monesi di Triora, Italy
- Opening hours : From 8am to 6/8pm depending on the time of the year. Check this.
- Permits or road fees: A road fee is requested for everyone and a booking must be done here. (Car = 20€ ; Motor Bike = 15€ ; Bike = 1€)
- Accommodations: Hotel : Chalet Morel (Google Pin) or Guest House : L’Artisin (Google Pin)
- The road is closed to motor vehicles all day on Tuesdays and Thursdays
- Driving time: Approx. 4 hours to 1 day round trip with stops.
What is La Via del Sale ?
La Via del Sale, also known as the Salt Road, is one of Italy’s most fascinating historic routes — and yet, I had never even heard of it before this trip! Living just a couple of hours away for almost 15 years, I couldn’t believe it took me so long to discover this hidden gem.
A Historic Trade Route
Historically, La Via del Sale was an important trade route. Merchants used it to carry salt from the Mediterranean Sea (Ligurian Coast) over the mountains to inland towns along the French border — a journey that was anything but easy. Today, the route has turned into a breathtaking high-altitude track, popular for adventure seeker: Off-Road Drivers (like us) ; Hikers ; Mountain Bikers.
The Drive: From Limone Piemonte, on the Italian-French Border
The part we drove runs for about 30 km at an altitude between 1800m and 2100m, along the Italian side of the border with France, starting from the alpine town of Limone Piemonte.
Imagine:
– Fresh mountain air and being surrounded by nature
– (Narrow) Gravel roads winding along the mountains
– Endless Valleys
For me, La Via del Sale is not just a road — it’s an adventure and pure freedom, all gathered into an unforgettable ride.
Where is La Via del Sale ?
As I live in Nice, we started our journey from there. But depending on where you are, you can also access La Via del Sale from Cuneo in the north or Ventimiglia in the south. You can reach this historic Salt Road in just a few hours, making it perfect for a weekend escape.
In just about two hours by car, we went from the Riviera’s palm trees to alpine forests, breathing this fresh mountain air. One of the things I loved about this trip is how far it can take you, even though it’s only a short distance from Nice. After this weekend, I literally felt as if I had spent a whole week away.
Starting Points of La Via del Sale
There are many different ways to experience La Via del Sale. The trail runs between:
– Limone Piemonte (the most popular starting point)
– Monesi di Triora
You can start from either side, depending on your itinerary.
How to Get There
To get there from Nice, you head towards the Italian border to Limone thru Sospel first and then to the Col de Tende. Once you’re up there, you got indication and you’ll find the toll few meters away after entering by a gravel road.
To reach Limone from Nice you have 2 options and before arriving to the Italian border:
– The famous old mountain pass (with stunning views and hairpin bends) through le Col de Tende.
– The tunnel if you want something faster and more direct to Limone.
(The tunnel has been closed for long periods due to very bad weather conditions, so make sure it’s open before you go. When we did La Via del Sale, the mountain path was closed (we were so sad about this as we only realized it once there), so we took the alternative traffic only on one side of the tunnel.)
Once in Limone Piemonte, it’s easy: head towards the Col de Tende — the Salt Road begins just above the town. We stayed the night before at Le Chalet Morel, which is just a few hairpin turns down from the entrance of the route. This option was perfect for us a we literally woke up, had breakfast, and started La Via del Sale right after.
Do You Need a 4×4 to Drive le Via del Sale ?
I would say yes and no. Before driving on La Via del Sale and seeing an old Renault Scenic tackling it, I wouldn’t have believed you could do it without a 4×4 — but apparently, you can! Honestly, it’s a very bumpy road, with sections of loose gravel, rocks, and steep inclines that would be tricky in a regular car. You always have to be careful where you put your wheels, even with a 4×4.
In the end, yes, it’s possible to do it with both, but to fully enjoy the adventure without worrying about breaking something or getting stuck, I would definitely recommend you using a 4×4!
How Long Does it Take to Drive the Salt Road?
Distance
We drove about 30 km on La Via del Sale (gravel road), entirely in Italy along the border with France. 30km was between Cold de Tende and Monesi de Triora but you have to count how long it’s gonna be to reach Limone and to come back home though France or Italy.
Duration
My first thought was: “Oh, it’s going to be so quick, we won’t enjoy it for that long …”. Trust me, that didn’t happen! It took longer than I expected, as it’s not like driving on a regular road at 30 km/h. The route is full of gravel and rocks, and you’ll admire the views as you drive, but you’ll also make a few stops to take photos, enjoy this incredible scenery, and fully embrace the present moment. Every turn brings a new view, and it really feels like being inside a movie.
The drive can be done in 2–3 hours if you’re focused only on getting from start to finish. But if you wanna take your time to fully enjoy breathtaking viewpoints and perfect spots for photos, you’ll ended up taking almost half a day to do it.
My advice? Take the whole day, take it slow to enjoy the adventure and leave plenty of time for the unexpected. The Salt Road is about experiencing the journey, not just ticking off kilometers.
When to Go and When The Road is Open ?
We went in the summer, and it was perfect to do La Via del Sale 4×4 adventure : the weather was warm, the mountain air refreshing, and the road completely accessible for our 4×4. Plus, the views were incredible, with a clear blue sky and the sunlight hitting the peaks just right — truly a photographer’s dream.
If you’re considering spring or early autumn, the landscapes are still stunning, with fewer crowds and a peaceful atmosphere but in winter you’lll unfortunately won’t be able to do it as the road will be closed due to the snow (trust me you’ll understand why when you’ll dot it). Also on tuesday and thursday it will be closed to motors vehicules and only open to bicycle and hikers.
What is the Route Like ?
We drove up to Col de Tende, winding through a few hairpin turns from Chalet Morel. Even in Limone Piemonte, the first mountain views were stunning, but it wasn’t until we reached Col de Tende and took the road to the “toll” for La Via del Sale that the adventure truly began. The gravel road starts gently, but as you go deeper into the mountains, the breathtaking views unfold, giving a real sense of the epic Salt Road experience. Each turn hints at the unforgettable journey that lies ahead.
As I mentioned before, La Via del Sale runs about 30 km, but it doesn’t feel like a regular 30 km drive. You move slowly on the gravel road, which is sometimes very narrow, and you’ll find yourself stopping several times to fully enjoy the unbelievable views, endless valleys or pine forests stretching as far as the eye can see.
I have to admit, at first I couldn’t stop taking photos. Every curve revealed something more breathtaking than the last. But after hundreds of pictures, I finally took a break, put the camera down, and just enjoyed the ride. Honestly, that’s when the real magic of La Via del Sale hits you.
Where We Stayed – Chalet Morel
Before doing the Salt Road we stayed 2 nights at Chalet Morel in Limone. It appeared to be the best in terms of location and we loved the chalet, the breakfast and the spa. I would def recommend staying in this one.
If you want other options, Limone Piemonte has some other lovely places :
– Hotel L’Artisin (My fav after Chalet Morel)- A cozy, boutique-style hotel with friendly staff and a rustic alpine charm. Perfect if you want something intimate and authentic in the heart of Limone.
– Fiocco di Neve Relais & SPA – A charming relais with a spa, perfect for a relaxing stay with gorgeous mountain views.
– Hotel Edelweiss – A charming alpine hotel with warm hospitality and comfortable rooms, well located as well for the Road of Salt.
– Riserva Bianca Limone Hotel & SPA – It offers modern comfort with a spa and wellness area, it’s great if you want a mix of adventure and relaxation.
Whether you’re into a cozy chalet or a friendly B&B, Limone Piemonte is the perfect base for your Salt Road adventure. It gives you all the comfort you need while staying close to the stunning mountains, making your off-road trip even more enjoyable.
The Reason Why You Need To Go
Looking back, this weekend was nothing short of magical. I was honestly blown away by what I saw along La Via del Sale — the vast mountain panoramas, the quiet beauty of the alpine landscapes, and the sense of freedom driving off-road… I still can’t believe what we experienced in just a couple of days. It felt like stepping into a completely different world, far away from the city life of Nice.
If you’re looking for a getaway that combines adventure with serenity, I can’t recommend La Via del Sale enough. Whether you’re in a 4×4, on a bike, or hiking, the route offers a unique way to experience the Italian Alps, discover charming towns like Limone Piemonte, and soak in moments that will stay with you forever.
So, plan your own escape, embrace slow travel, and let the mountains surprise you — just like they did for me. Trust me, this is one weekend adventure you won’t forget.
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